When you get into the swing of sewing, its easy to get lost in a project and not think about your sewing machine needle. One sewing tip an expert will tell you is to make sure you change your needles regularly to get the best results. But if you’re a beginner sewist, sewing machine needles can all seem the same but they’re not. They come in various types and sizes. So how do you know which sewing needle to use for your project? Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered!
To help you prevent skipped stitches and damaged fabric, here’s how to choose the right sewing machine needle.
Types of Sewing Machine Needles
Different fabrics and sewing techniques require specific needle types. Here are the most common ones:
Universal Needles
- Suitable for woven and knit fabrics.
- Medium-point tip works well for general sewing projects.
- Ideal for cotton, polyester, and synthetic fabrics.
Ballpoint (Jersey) Needles
- Rounded tip prevents snags and damage to knit fabrics.
- Best for sewing stretchy fabrics like jersey, interlock, and rib knits.
Stretch Needles
- Specially designed for very stretchy fabrics like spandex and lycra.
- Helps prevent skipped stitches and fabric distortion.
Microtex (Sharp) Needles
- Extra sharp point for precise stitches on delicate fabrics.
- Ideal for silk, chiffon, tulle, and lightweight woven fabrics.
Denim (Jeans) Needles
- Strong needle with a reinforced shaft to sew through heavy fabrics.
- Best for denim, canvas, and thick upholstery fabrics.
Leather Needles
- Wedge-shaped tip that cuts through non-woven materials like leather and vinyl.
- Not suitable for woven or knitted fabrics.
Twin Needles
- Two needles attached to a single shank.
- Used for decorative stitches, pintucks, and hemming knit fabrics.
Choosing the Right Needle Size
Needle sizes are indicated by two numbers, such as 80/12. The first number (European) ranges from 60 to 120, and the second (American) ranges from 8 to 20. The lower the number, the finer the needle.
| Needle Size | Fabric Type |
|---|---|
| 60/8 – 70/10 | Lightweight fabrics like chiffon, silk, and organza |
| 80/12 – 90/14 | Medium-weight fabrics like cotton, linen, and polyester |
| 100/16 – 110/18 | Heavy fabrics like denim, canvas, and upholstery |
| 120/19 – 130/21 | Extra-heavy materials like leather and thick upholstery |
Tips for Selecting and Using Sewing Machine Needles
- Match the needle to the fabric – Always choose a needle that complements the weight and type of fabric you are sewing.
- Change needles regularly – A dull needle can cause skipped stitches and fabric snags. Replace the needle after 8–10 hours of sewing.
- Test before sewing – Stitch on a fabric scrap to ensure the needle works well with your thread and material.
- Use high-quality needles – Investing in good needles reduces breakage and improves stitch quality.
- Store needles properly – Keep needles organised and labeled to avoid using the wrong type.
Knowing how to choose the right sewing machine needle can help ensure smooth, even stitches and prolongs the life of your fabric and thread. By understanding different needle types and sizes, you can confidently choose the best option for any sewing project. Keep a variety of needles handy so you’re always prepared for different fabrics and techniques.
If you’d like some information about the best types of fabric for beginners, check out this list of 30 types of fabric.
Happy sewing!
